Introducing: De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

It looks like watchmaker/alchemist Denis Flageollet has been tinkering in his laboratory again, fusing core models with features borrowed from other references to produce something even better. As one of the brand’s most iconic references, the De Bethune DB28 has recently enjoyed some very attractive makeovers. Immediately identified by its crown at noon, delta-shaped bridge, floating lugs and futuristic silhouette, the latest model to undergo an aesthetic evolution is the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon that blends the architecture and technicality of the DB28 Steel Wheels Tourbillon, the extra-flat titanium case of the DB28XP and more…

While the nomenclature can be a little confusing, a quick refresh might help. In 2018, De Bethune released the DB28 Steel Wheels with an openworked dial to reveal the contemporary architecture of its movement. Pushing the envelope, the DB28 Steel Wheels incorporated a tourbillon in 2020, and in 2022, the model was whittled down to become the DB28XP (extra plat/ultra-thin) Steel Wheels. Another reference that comes into play here is the closed-dial DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon released earlier this year.

The 43mm grade 5 titanium case is classic DB28 territory with its wonderful articulated, floating lugs and crown at noon. Entirely polished, the gleaming case conforms to its XP denomination and has a thickness of just 9.1mm.

Although the dial is an openworked Steel Wheels, the more refined titanium chapter ring is similar to the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon and is now decorated with a blued microlight pattern with spherical polished hour markers. Composed of layers, openworked areas and different shapes and finishes, the front side of the case features the hallmark delta-shaped titanium bridge, which is also decorated with a blue microlight pattern. Beneath the bridge are the twin barrels, now with blued microlight titanium inserts.

Occupying a large aperture at 6 o’clock is De Bethune’s ultra-light tourbillon. Weighing just 0.18 grams and beating at a high frequency of 5Hz, it performs a complete rotation every 30 seconds. The blued titanium balance wheel – patented by De Bethune – has white gold weights and matches the other blued elements on the dial.

The watch is powered by the hand-wound calibre DB2009V6, a derivation of the DB2009V5 with fewer parts (275 vs. 380). Fitted with many of De Bethune’s patented innovations, the self-regulating twin barrels ensure an impressive 5-day power reserve. There is a power reserve indicator on the reverse to gauge the fuel supply.

The De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, with a choice of alligator leather strap or textile blue strap, is a limited edition of 10 pieces. It retails for USD 210,000. More information at debethune.ch.