How to Convert Older MTB Wheels to Boost Spacing - Singletracks Mountain Bike News

Boost spacing has been debated and appreciated throughout our community of technical-toy lovers since its industry debut roughly five years ago. Today it is difficult to find a frame or fork that has not conformed to the new standard, or been “supersized.” Let’s pause and appreciate this moment of consistency, while we wait for Super Boost or another standard to upend the bicycle frame and fork markets once again.

If for any reason you cannot replace your hubs to work with a new frame or fork, there is hope. For a standard through-axle conversion, from 100mm-front and 142mm-rear to Boost 110mm-front and 148mm-rear, there are a number of ways to fill the gap.

These adapters are made of spacers and end caps that take up Boost space on the non-drive side of the rear hub, and drive side of the front, requiring you to re-dish (re-center) the wheel to a new central point. In the rear, they add spacers on the non-drive side so that your chainline remains properly oriented for precise shifting on the drive side.

These adapters convert your hub by adding spacers equally on either side, avoiding the need to re-dish your wheel. This may be a better option for folks who don’t own a truing stand or dishing tool and want to complete the conversion on their own.

In addition to the adapters listed above, eBay and Amazon both host a glut of adaptor kits to choose from. I don’t often steer folks toward these sites for quality components, but in this case, there are some solid options.

What are your tips and tricks for Boost conversion? How have you managed to keep your old “narrow” hubs rolling through another standard?